Today we decided to explore what is meant to be one of the great unknowns round here - the Eastern Shore. This is the narrow bank of land north of Virginia Beach that is the eastern side of Chesapeake Bay.
The start involves crossing the "Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel" - a bridge that, in total, is some 17 miles long and includes 3 tunnels. Phenomenal engineering (and vision) to build it. It costs $12 to cross - if you keep your receipt and return within 24 hours, it's $5 to return - and lands you in a different planet!
The first thing we spotted were signs for the Eastern Shore Wildlife Center (note spelling) - why not, we thought? Well, welcome to hospitable America! Not sure there was anyone else there but the welcome we received was fantastic - enthusiastic, knowledgeable and personal. The center itself was good but then we were told about the Butterfly Trail that led to the blockouse built in WWII to protect Chesapeake Bay (imagine!) and there it was, a mammoth concrete structure that (surprise, surprise) never fired a shot in anger. But what a landscape! Atlantic Ocean, sandbanks, intercoastal salt flats, uplands, Chesapeake - all within 2 or 3 miles - an amazing ecosystem that was presented brilliantly by the center. If you're ever here, mention our name!
We then carried on up the Eastern Shore (our evenual destination being Chincoteague Island).
This consisted mainly of leisurely driving down local roads where you almost felt obliged to wave at any driver coming the other way (there weren't many). No towns to speak of, only clusters of homes that had a name. The amount of land is amazing - why houses aren't larger I don't know. Eventually, we reached Cape Charles, a sleepy little place with a bit of history - it had a railroad station where the rich New Yorkers changed for ferries to............Florida! If you look at the map, you'll realise why this now seems such a strange idea but it happened. Unfortunately, only rusty rails now testify to this history - even Cape Charles station is gone. We did see what might have been a relic from those days - we called in the Cape Charles Tearooms for lunch (and very good it was) only to find we were in a building with a galleried first floor and all the trimmings -brought it all back.
Our next anticipated port of call was the Barrier Islands Museum in Machipongo (really). Here, we learnt a valuable lesson - everywhere is bl**dy shut on Mondays! So we went towards our next target - the rail museum at Parksley. Guess what? Yep! However, we were able to have a wander round (at our own risk, a sign said) - very pleasant.
We finally reached Chincoteague and, at least the author thought, why!!!?? Very nice but......Suffice to say we then headed for the NASA visitor center we had passed on our way.
This was Wallops Island visitor center where, unbeknownst to mankind, NASA had been launching all sorts of scientific missions to space (particularly suborbital) since the 1950s. Fascinating for 10 minutes but...
So then, it was back down Route 13 to the bridge/tunnel and then on to "Blooms" - a great supermarket where we could have (in fact, did) spent a small fortune on really good food. Then home so we could go to Abbey Road Bar & Grill - lots of Beatles "stuff" on the walls but only OK food - burger for Carol, prime rib for me. More beer, then oblivion!
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